Got to be stoked on surf trips that help define who you are.
trips where you make friends for a lifetime
where you find out who you can travel with and who you cant
surf trips full of mistakes
trips that you score great surf
a journey where you find out what your made of
trips where the surf never materialized
trips where you meet people you wouldnt ordinarily meet
trips where you see how other people live
surf trips where you get ill and feel like your going to die
excursions made by bike, boat, bus, car, plane, train, walking.
I had a surf trip the past two days in Huntington, a sandbar less frequented by the masses, my home break
with a few good friends
heavy offshore winds, 6 foot combo swell and only us out.
life is good.
BAJA My green toyota 4X4 with the Batman logo