When We Win the lotto

I want to go and wear a 6/4/3, a hood, gloves and booties again,  check out the waves in the rain or snow, change into my wetsuit in the cold, clamber over rocks to get into the surf,  feel the offshores sting my face, ride waves of great length down the point, be exhausted from paddling for days, day....after day..after day,, smell the peat fire of someones home from the lineup, ride more waves, enjoy the company of a few, clamber over rock to get out of the surf, feel the cold wind on my skin,  eat PB& marmalade and drink hot tea watching waves at the point, sit by a fire in a warm pub with my wife and kids...when we win the lotto